|Posted by firstname.lastname@example.org on June 16, 2020 at 7:20 PM||comments (1)|
Snakes as Family Part One:
Are Snakes being overlooked as the Perfect Pet Family Members?
As an animal trainer, director of an animal sanctuary, and someone who has shared a home with animals their whole life I am always surprised by people who do not share their life with at least one non-human animal. Common reasons that I hear from people regarding why they don’t share their home with a pet go something like this: “I really like animals but I just don’t have the time to spend with one”, “I would love to have a pet but I’m gone a lot”, “I don’t have the money to take care of one”, and “I have allergies to animals” or “I’m allergic”.
When I think about these reasons and then I think of snakes, I really believe that they are being overlooked for consideration as what could be the perfect pet family member for many people. Here is why:
Snakes do not need you to spend much time with them. Depending on the type of snake you share your home with, they may be perfectly content to remain in their habitat and be left alone much of the time. Snakes are not inherently social, although recent research indicates some species of snakes are social with each other, they do not typically seek social interaction with people, in fact, most of the time they prefer to avoid people.
For someone who would like to share their home with an animal but who has very little time to care for or interact with them, snakes are quite possibly perfect. Besides not demanding your constant affection and attention as a dog or cat might, snakes eat infrequently. Snakes may eat anywhere from once a week to one a month or more, depending on the species and their age. This equates to infrequent elimination, so enclosure cleaning does not have to be done very often. Making sure the animal has clean water and is being housed at the proper temperature are really the most involved things a pet parent would have to do.
People who would like to have a pet while at home but who are gone a lot or travel frequently may find that a snake is perfect for them. Why? They eat only once every 1-6 weeks and are content to remain quietly alone. Going on vacation, traveling for work, working long hours or working overtime would not really affect a snake. When traveling, the most you would need to do is have someone check periodically that your animal has water and that your environmental controls are working (i.e. lighting and/or heating which you can easily control with a timer and thermostat).
For those who say they would like to have a pet but cannot afford to take care of one, snakes are fairly inexpensive to keep. Once you invest in the initial enclosure set-up, which can be anywhere from simple to complex depending on your preference, the cost of maintenance is not that much. Most snakes eat a rodent per meal and those cost on average $1 - $4 each depending on the type and size. If your snake eats once a week, even with the largest size rodent, that is about $4 a week to feed your snake and if they eat once a month, like some of mine, that is $4 a month. I really do not know of a live pet that costs less to feed.
They can drink the same water consumed by humans in the home and the only other upkeep costs would be to replace bedding and light or heat bulbs if in use. As with any animal, including humans, there is always the potential for medical bills due to injury or illness; however, snakes do not rack up any annual medical costs for things like vaccinations or teeth cleaning. It is a good idea to have a fecal check done every now and then to check for internal parasites, but that would be optional unless a problem comes up.
That brings us to those irritating allergies. For those who love animals but are allergic to many of them, snakes could be the perfect solution. I did a little research (of course) and the American Academy of Allergy, Asthma, and Immunology actually recommends snakes as pets for people who are sensitive to allergens from animal dander. It is very rare for a human to be allergic to snakes and other reptiles because they have no hair or epidermal dander (Damien Campbell, 2019, Sciencing). Humans with allergy issues would just need to pick out bedding and enclosure furnishings for their snake that they are not allergic to.
If all of those pros are not enough to make snakes attractive pets, consider that snakes are quiet, no barking or yowling to bother family members or neighbors. Quiet does not mean they are incapable of meaningful interactions though. They are beautiful to look at and enjoyable just to watch. Depending on the type of snake, they can range from mellow to outgoing. Snakes may climb, burrow, swim, and display other behaviors to captivate the attention. They can also be trained via classical and operant conditioning in a similar manner as other animals, and they can be socialized to handling for those who want some physical interaction with their pet.
Just to review, snakes do not demand much time to care for because they eat and eliminate infrequently, they do not demand physical attention, they can be left alone while away at work or traveling, and they are hypoallergenic. Their upkeep costs are very little and in return they provide the companionship of a beautiful living animal to share home and hearth with. I know that for me it is comforting and enjoyable to just sit and watch them whether they are resting in a tree or on a ledge, or actively moving around their habitat exercising. Snakes provide enjoyment and companionship while I am doing other things such as reading, working on the computer, doing household chores, etc.; and I am able to interact with them when I have time because they are trained and socialized. Their presence is tranquil and comforting and I would miss them in their absence.
Campbell, Damien. Sciencing. 22 November 2019. 16 June 2020.
Burghardt, GM. (2017) Keeping reptiles and amphibians as pets: challenges and rewards Veterinary Record 181, 447-449.
Using Operant Conditioning and Desensitization to Facilitate Veterinary Care with Captive Reptiles (Hellmuth, Heidi; Augustine, Lauren, et al., Veterinary Clinics: Exotic Animal Practice, Volume 15, Issue 3, 425 – 443)
|Posted by email@example.com on March 12, 2020 at 6:20 PM||comments (0)|
I have recently heard discussions on a few podcasts regarding enclosure types. Why debate this subject when we can turn to the animals to tell us what they want? We humans think we know what is best for our snake, sometimes we have valid reasons and other times we are making assumptions without empirical facts. What I am not hearing as part of these enclosure discussions is that it should come down to what the animals prefer. Watching their behavior when housed in different enclosures is a start. Recognizing that your snake exhibited stress behaviors (see the behavior guide provided below) in a glass front enclosure and that its behavior became relaxed when placed in a tub, or, that your snake behaved as if stressed in a tub and became content in a terrarium, are just a couple of examples of what we should be doing: observing behavior and accommodating the animal's preferences. I know that some in the hobby do this; however, where I see the hobby falling short is not doing preference testing to determine what individual animals prefer.
I cringe when I hear people make blanket statements such as: "snakes prefer small, dark, tight places", "snakes don't move around much so they don't need space", "ball pythons are happier in tubs", etc. you get the idea. Those generalities are not going to be factual for all species or even all individuals within a species. We have all said these or similar things, I have been guilty of it too. We like to think that we know what snakes want either based on their natural history (in the wild) or on preconceived notions we have developed for other reasons.
An example of a failure on my part was presuming that since Bullsnakes are local to Colorado (where I live) and its dry here that they wouldn't benefit from, or use a humid hide. I assumed the same of Morelia bredli because I imagined the area around Alice Springs, Australia to be dry. Wow, was I wrong! After making a video about how to provide humidity for species that need it, I had an extra moss box and just tossed it in with the nearest snake, a bredli, and was surprised to see him using it A LOT! Moss boxes are so easy to make, and it hurts nothing to put them inside the enclosures, I made one for every snake and figured they would use it or not. 22 out of 24 bredli in one of our studies used their humid hides on a regular basis and my Bullsnake and Gopher Snake both use theirs very frequently.
My point is this: just because we think we know what a particular species of snake needs based on their natural history does not equate to what they might prefer in captivity. Knowing their natural history is a start but if we offer them options under human care, they will tell us what they prefer and what they don't. Unless we do preference testing, we cannot truly say for example, "ball pythons are happy in tubs". They may be happy or content in tubs, or they may just appear that way because they have no other options; however, we cannot honestly know either way unless we offer them another option and let them choose. Ball Pythons may do adequately in a tub but if they have no other choices, then we don't know that is actually what they would prefer. Ideally, we would need to link the tub to an enclosure (cage) so that the snake was free to move between the two, and observe where they chose to spend most or all of their time. This is an example of preference testing, providing two or more options and observing the animal’s behavior choices.
We currently work with around 70 individual snakes solely studying their behavior. We do quite a lot of preference testing during which we offer choices in enclosure types, substrates, hides, perching, various enclosure furnishings, exercise and activity options, etc. to determine what individual snakes and species in general indicate preferences for. The truth is that I am surprised by some of the choices the snakes ultimately make. For example: a Western Hognose that spends more time in her humid hide than anywhere else, a Kenyan Sand Boa that spends a lot of time climbing (I know, crazy!), and pythons that spend more time in or on cardboard boxes than on branches and rocks are just a few examples.
We have a hodgepodge of habitats here from tubs to elaborate enclosures because we listen to the snakes and ultimately allow them to exercise choice and control over the enclosure type that they prefer to live in. I know keepers who like their reptile rooms to have all the same types of enclosures so it looks nice, but not 100% of every one of the snakes living in them would prefer that enclosure type if allowed to choose. Our keeping should be about the animal and not about us.
For keepers who prefer cage-type enclosures and may have a snake that prefers a tub or just isn't ready for that transition yet, there is nothing wrong with putting a tub/bin inside an enclosure and making a hole in it so the snake can choose to come out and explore the larger habitat when it wants. I have done this with a few snakes: their fully furnished tub is inside a fully furnished larger enclosure and I put a hole in the tub, the snake can then have choice and control over how it uses its options. I have also had several snakes demonstrate the opposite: they display stress behaviors and restlessness in their quarantine tub and when moved into a terrarium or PVC enclosure they behave contently, displaying relaxed behaviors.
We also need to realize that when snakes don't have to spend 100% of their energy budget on survival and reproduction (as they do in the wild), they will find other things to expend that (species dependent) energy on. While snakes will exhibit natural behaviors in captive settings when given the opportunity, they may also exhibit novel behaviors that we wouldn't see from them in the wild. Why? Because they can. We keep them safe, fed, and give them the ability to easily thermoregulate, so now they have free energy and time to do other things, including trying new things.
My point is that we cannot truly know what a species prefers, or what an individual snake prefers unless we test their preferences. We have to offer them options and the ability to make choices meaningful to them. We also cannot make blanket statements such as "snakes prefer small, dark places". Some do, and many don't. The largest group in our study (28 Morelia bredli and we are adding more) spend the MAJORITY of their time out in the open and when they do hide, more often than not they choose a humid hide or an opaque hide over a solid (black) hide. So, the statement that they “like small, dark places” wouldn't be accurate for this species. It may be accurate for others, our Rainbow Boas for example, we hardly ever see because they are choosing to hide in small dark places! These are just a couple of examples. Remember preferred behaviors will vary according to species and indiviudal.
We don’t have any Ball (Royal) Pythons here or I would set up some preference testing in regard to some of the common beliefs about them. With the thousands of them out there I wish a few breeders (or keepers) would just take one or two of their animals and set up a preference test for habitats. If several of you Royal Python enthusiasts and breeders did this, you could pool the results and have a larger sample size. Connecting a tub to an enclosure is easy to do, it just takes up a little extra space. I would be fascinated to see the results of doing this test to see where the Royal Pythons would choose to spend most of their time. We have done this test with other species and consequently, not all of our snakes are kept the same way. I would speculate that the choices we see are based on things such as natural history, the environment they were raised in under human care, individual temperaments, learned behaviors, individual genetics, prior history in captivity, and prior handling history.
For the sake of the animal, I would like to see humans get over their caging vs. tubs debate and allow the animals to choose. Preference testing is not difficult, and it is the only true way to know what the animal actually prefers. I would also point out that once health/stress issues are eliminated as the cause of a behavior, it really isn’t necessary for us to know “why” a snake is performing a behavior, we only have to recognize that it has chosen to do that behavior and provide it with opportunities to express its behavioral preferences.
“We can see brains, but cannot see minds; yet, we can see the workings of minds in the logic of behaviors” (Carl Safina 2016).
|Posted by firstname.lastname@example.org on July 10, 2019 at 4:05 AM||comments (0)|
I was fortunate to be able to share some of my training and behavior work with snakes on https://www.blogtalkradio.com/moreliapythonradio/2019/07/10/snake-behavior-with-lori-torrini" target="_blank">Morelia Python Radio (MPR) Tuesday, July 9, 2019. Eric Burke sent me a list of EXCELLENT questions ahead of time and I knew there was no way we would make it through all of them in just 2 hours because there is just so much to cover in regards to snake cognition, behavior, welfare, and training. I will put together a blog post this week with important take aways from the interview and include some of the information we ran out of time to discuss. In the mean, time I wanted to provide some links to material related to things we did discuss. I strongly believe taking the time to educate yourself will lead you to a rewarding relationship with your snake and guide you to become a successful keeper.
https://www.vetexotic.theclinics.com/article/S1094-9194(12)00051-5/pdf?fbclid=IwAR1SeyZ_BsNxI51bYXVAls_LI5MMsgyCk1jmq-RtSNqzI4JJvW3iWxwcX3o" target="_blank">Using Operant Conditioning and Desensitization to Facilitate Veterinary Care with Captive Reptiles by Hellmuth, Augustine, Watkins, and Hope (2012)
https://spring2019.iaabcjournal.org/training-snakes-to-voluntarily-relocate/" target="_blank">Training Snakes to Voluntarily Relocate by Lori Torrini (2019) IAABC Journal
Emotion, Pleasure, and Displeasure in Reptiles contained in the book https://www.amazon.com/Mental-Well-Being-Animals-Franklin-McMillan/dp/0813804892" target="_blank">Mental Health and Well-Being in Animals by McMillan (2005)
https://www.amazon.com/Beyond-Words-What-Animals-Think/dp/1250094593/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=carl+safina&qid=1562747772&s=books&sr=1-1" target="_blank">Beyond Words: What Animals Think and Feel by Carl Safina (2016)
https://www.ted.com/talks/carl_safina_what_are_animals_thinking_and_feeling?language=en" target="_blank">Carl Safina Ted Talk TOPICS: Brains, evolution, behavior, and the animal mind
graphic/cheat sheet on snake body language below:
|Posted by email@example.com on June 30, 2019 at 6:25 PM||comments (0)|
Update: Behavior study of Morelia bredli under human care
30 June 2019
The study currently involves 10 animals hatched in 2018 and 7 older animals hatched between 2014 – 2017. The most recent animals were added on 15 May 2019. I feel that 10 animals all the same age is a good sample size to start for comparison and cataloguing of behaviors. They, in addition to the 7 older animals, should give us an overall picture of what behaviors M. bredli spend most of their time doing under human care when given a variety of options for expressing natural behaviors in a captive setting. Ideally, we would like to add 2 additional older animals to have a sample size of 20 total. While the enclosures vary in size, appropriate for each animal, each habitat contains the same choices: perches and ledges, humidity hides and dry hides, opaque hides and solid black/brown hides, artificial foliage, toilet paper/paper towel roll or cardboard tube, water dish, and overhead heat lamp to provide a basking spot. The animals are fed based on the totality of behavior being exhibited to include not only physical activity and body language but also elimination behavior and ecdysis. This is looked at along with time since last meal to determine an appropriate time to feed. So far, we have had no animals refuse food when offered. The animals are being habituated to handling, weighing, and spending time in temporary holding. They are also all being target and/or station trained. Every other feeding each animal is weighed and moved to temporary holding where they are fed while their enclosures receive a deep cleaning. On the off (non-weighing, non-cleaning) week they are fed in their normal enclosure. Each of the 2018 babies had their first target training session during their most recent feeding within their enclosures on 28 June 2019. M. bredli seem naturally curious and 8/10 animals moved towards the target when presented it for the first time, tongue flicking at it and touching it with their nose. The target was then removed, and the animals were presented with their food item, which they took immediately. 2/10 animals struck once at the target upon being presented with it, reevaluated, then moved towards it tongue flicking and touching it with their nose. The target was then removed, and the food item presented, each one took their food immediately. The target training is useful to teach the animals to follow the target out of their enclosures for exercise or weighing without anyone having to reach in and pull them out, and, it teaches them to not assume that everything presented to them is food. This has worked very well with older animals and babies in training trials being conducted separately with Morelia spilota.
As an interesting aside, animal weights vary a great deal, with some of the 2018 babies even weighing more than some of the older animals. ALL animals are behaving normally, eating well, and shedding well with healthy body conditions.
For those interested the 6/29/18 weights on each animal are as follows for GROUP 2 (older animals):
Bennu hatched in 2014 = 1156 grams
Telemachus hatched in 2016 = 518 grams
Zalenka hatched in 2017 = 279 grams
Tenavik hatched in 2017 = 342 grams
Seefra hatched in 2017 = 254 grams
Gaheris hatched in 2017 = 129 grams
Captain Pike hatched in 2017 = 99 grams
For those interested the 6/20/18 weights on each animal are as follows for GROUP 1 (2018 babies):
Stamets = 42 grams
Lorca = 57 grams
L'Rell = 61 grams
Saru = 141 grams
Lyta = 57 grams
Tilly = 49 grams
Triangula = 45 grams
Andromeda = 36 grams
Mrs. Peel = 160 grams
X452 = 165 grams
|Posted by firstname.lastname@example.org on May 12, 2019 at 6:35 AM||comments (0)|
Bredli Behavior Study: Update 1
I tracked the activity of 14 individual Morelia bredli, 8 females and 6 males, ages 8 months to nearly 5 years old over two 12-hour periods. The first was between 5:00 pm and 5:00 am (1700 – 0500 hours) on May 10, 2019 – May 11, 2019. The second was between 11:30 am and 11:30 pm (1130 – 2330 hours) on May 11, 2019. An ethogram was filled out for each animal at 30-minute intervals.
The purpose of this was to test the methodology for a long-term behavior study, the applicability of the behavior inventory, and the efficacy of the ethogram template prior to the start of a long-term behavior study. The goal of this study is to capture behaviors relevant to keeping Morelia bredli in conditions allowing them freedom to express natural behaviors under human care. For example, if upon completion of a long-term study a behavior budget indicates M. bredli spend 63% of their time arboreally versus 25% terrestrially then it would be advisable for keepers to make it a higher priority to provide adequate vertical enclosure space and make substrate type or swimming areas a lower priority.
During this short test study, 3 of the snakes were in pre-ecdysis or “blue” and were less active than normal and hiding more than normal. This illustrates the need for a full study to be over a long period of time so that seasonal behavior changes, and behavior differences due to breeding season or ecdysis are averaged into the overall time budget for this species. Activity and behavior also varies with time of day or night necessitating observations to be conducted over all 24 hours in a day to obtain an accurate picture of what the animals are doing overall. If an animal is only watched during the day, it may appear to hide a lot and be sedentary; however, if the same animal was observed overnight it may demonstrate a high activity level and spend most of the time out in the open.
The results of our short sample study and the definitions of the focal behaviors are shown below. Keep in mind that many of these behaviors may be occurring simultaneously. For example, a snake may be “coiled” and “exposed” at the same time or may be “draped” in an “arboreal” location or a “terrestrial” location. The occurrence percentage is based on the average number of times the behaviors were observed among all 14 focal animals. Each snake was observed 25 times (once every ½ hour during the 12-hour period). The ethogram results of all 14 snakes were added together and the behavior occurrences averaged to produce a sample time budget for M. bredli. The snakes on average spent most of their time exposed (out in the open), arboreally (in the top half of their enclosure), in either a coiled or draped position.
1. HIDING - Majority of body concealed.
2. EXPOSED - Majority of body visible.
3. TOP LEVEL - Majority of body in the top level of its vertical space; on perches, ledges, shelves, in vegetation, or on top of enclosure furnishings.
4. MIDDLE LEVEL – Majority of body off the ground, in the middle level of its vertical space.
5. GROUND - Majority of body on the ground, on or under substrate; ground level of its enclosure.
6. AQUATIC – Majority of body in water soaking or swimming.
7. HUMIDITY BOX – Majority of body inside humidity box.
8. LOCOMOTION – Movement; actively moving from one location to another.
9. CLIMBING – Movement; actively climbing (ascending or descending) on enclosure furnishings.
10. OUT OF VIEW – Animal not visible.
11. COILED – Majority of body arranged or wound in a spiral or sequence of concentric circles or rings.
12. RECTILINEAR – Majority of the body in a straight line, or, near straight line/stretched out positioning.
13. DRAPED – Majority of animal arranged loosely or casually on or around enclosure furnishings; resting atop something in a casual or relaxed way.
This test of the study methodology and tools has been useful, and there are minor changes to the ethogram and focal behaviors to make as we move forward. The data meant to be captured is how the snakes spend their time during a 24-hour day and (eventually) during a 365-day year under human care. This study is not capturing body language, body postures, fear or stress behaviors, defensive behaviors, feeding behavior, furnishing or hide type preferences, or stereotypies. These could easily be additional research areas; however, the focus of this study is a general time budget for M. bredli to better assist keepers with enclosure design and set-up to accommodate the animal’s natural behaviors.
|Posted by email@example.com on May 4, 2019 at 3:30 AM||comments (0)|
May 2019 Pilot Study Update
Lori A. Torrini, CPDT-KA, A.A.S.
This seems to be a controversial subject among snake keepers, breeders, and hobbyists. Since I began to research this topic over a year ago, I have read and heard opinions from “never do it” to “I have done it for years with no problems” and everything in between. I have searched for scientific studies into the subject and been disappointed to find none, other than some on communal behavior of snakes in the wild and cohabitation of breeding pairs or groups in captivity.
Personally, I find it much easier as a keeper of multiple snakes to house them individually. This way I am dealing with just one animal at a time when I have the enclosure open, I know which one shed, drank water, eliminated, etc. I can feed it in the enclosure or out without having to worry about another snake nearby, and I can conduct training without another snake interfering. With that said, there are some keepers who, for their own reasons, would like to keep more than one snake together, maybe to observe behavior to maximize resources, etc. Either way, the most important thing should be what is best for the welfare of the animal. If, in fact, snakes prefer to be in the company of conspecifics or, to at least have that option available, then we should be providing them the opportunity.
The American Pet Products Association reported for 2017-2018 that 9.4 million reptiles are kept as pets in United States households. The American Veterinary Medical Association reported in 2012 that 555 snakes were being kept as pets per every 1000 households in the United States. These numbers do not include those snakes kept in zoos or those maintained in herpetoculture for breeding and sale into the pet trade. Despite large numbers of snakes under human care there is a lack of research regarding their social behavior and preferences. The question this study will endeavor to answer is whether snakes kept under human care prefer to be housed individually or in pairs/groups. Ask anyone in herpetoculture if pet snakes should be kept individually or together and responses will be from one extreme to the other.
While one snake owner, breeder, or pet shop clerk may make statements such as: “snakes are solitary animals”, “snakes prefer to be kept alone”, “snakes should never be housed together”, and “snakes could cannibalize each other”; others will make statements such as: “I have always kept pairs of snakes together”, “my snakes have been housed together all their lives”, “I keep breeding pairs together all year long”, and “snakes huddle together for warmth”. These previous statements are anecdotal. They are not based on empirical scientific research. The quest to uncover previous behavioral studies to support any of these claims has come up empty. This pilot study will be an important first step in providing answers based on actual scientific observations of snake social behavior in a captive setting.
The facts as I have been able to find, or not find, simply do not tell us if snakes maintained under human care (in captivity) prefer the opportunity for the company of conspecifics or not. Clearly some species predate upon other snakes and even those of their own kind, and others spend time with multiple members of their kind in communal hibernacula and other settings on occasion in the wild. There have simply not been any controlled scientific studies on cohabitation of snakes under human care with any published findings.
The following studies were the only ones found relevant to aspects of snake social behavior that did not specifically involve breeding, prey capture, and basking behavior. While they do address aspects of snake social behavior relevant to communal living, except for one these were conducted in the wild and not in captive environments. The one conducted in 1975 and published in 1977 observed a group of 4 males with 1 female Indian Python and studied the social hierarchy regarding dominance in breeding behavior.
• Dinets, Vladimir. 2017 “Coordinated Hunting by Cuban Boas”. Animal Behavior and Cognition 4 (1): 24-29. Open Access.
• Alexander, G. J. 2018. “Reproductive Biology and Maternal Care of Neonates in Southern African Python (Python natalensis)”. Journal of Zoology; Zoological Society of London. Press Release.
• Amarello, Melissa. 2012. “Social Snakes? Non-random Association Patterns detected in a Population of Arizona Black Rattlesnakes (Crotalus Cerberus)”. Arizona State University, USA. Master’s Thesis.
• Amarello, M. 2012. “Social Snakes? The Role of Kin Selection in Rattlesnake Aggregations”. Sonoran Herpetologist 25: 129-130.
• Barker, D.G. 1979. “Social Behavior in a Captive Group of Indian Pythons with formation of a Linear Social Hierarchy”. Copeia, 466-471.
Through Spirit Keeper Equine Sanctuary 501c3 and Behavior Education LLC, with assistance from Pikes Peak Community College Zookeeping interns, I am conducting a pilot study. This pilot study is designed to answer the question of whether snakes given the opportunity and choice will remain solitary or near other snakes when provided two identical connected enclosures. When two snake enclosures with identical environments that are carbon copies of each other in every way (i.e. duplicate layouts, furniture, perching, hides, water, heating, lighting, vegetation, etc.) are connected so that each snake may access both, will the snakes remain apart from each other or near each other most of the time? This must be a long duration study. The animals must be observed throughout the year and throughout their various life-stages as behavior may change based on age and seasonal fluctuations.
For over a year now I have been observing four cohabbed pairs of snakes from the genus Morelia. I have the animals in carefully controlled and monitored set-ups and keep detailed journal notes on them. I plan to continue the current study and to set-up additional pairs for observation. I journal their behavior and record statistics as to how much time they spend together versus separate when given choice and control. No agonistic behaviors, conflicts, or failure to thrive have been observed in these four pairs to date. The current pairs are as follows: M/F 2017 Morelia spilota variegata, M/F adult Morelia spilota unknown subspecies, F/F 2017 Morelia spilota harrisoni, and F/F 2018 Morelia spilota harrisoni. Animals pending pairing are sub-adult Morelia spilota metcalfei and Morelia bredli. Statistics are being pulled from the logs and a time budget is being produced. In general, the F/F pairs spend less time together the older they get. The M/F pairs spend most of their time together versus separate; this is observed in the adult pair and in the sub-adult pair. Interestingly all four pairs spend time basking together for several hours after they have been separated for feeding and placed back inside their enclosures. 100% of the time they move around the enclosure(s) immediately following their return from eating until they locate each other; then, they coil together in the same basking area for several hours.
The four pair of Morelia spilota currently observed indicate a preference to be with conspecifics some of the time. No agonistic, bullying, or conflict behavior has been observed. The animals are consistent feeders that express natural behaviors free from any indicators of fear or distress. It is not known if their individual personalities or behaviors would change if permanently separated.
Based on my findings so far, I would offer these considerations for anyone thinking of cohabbing snakes:
• Choose a species that is not known to engage in ophiophagy.
• Choose male/female or female/female cohabitants as some males engage in male to male combat during breeding season.
• Set up two enclosures with identical furnishings and resources in each and then connect the enclosures; or, set up one double-sized enclosure with resources duplicated (2 of everything). SEE VIDEO EXAMPLE BELOW.
• Two connected enclosures or one large enclosure with duplicated resources will allow everyone the choice and control over utilizing resources alone or with the other animal and will give one animal the opportunity to move away from the other animal if it chooses.
• Monitor the animals closely for any signs of stress, agonistic behavior, health issues, or general failure to thrive.
• Consider surveillance cameras to monitor the animals when you are not there to watch them in person.
• Divide the enclosure or separate the animals for feeding to avoid feeding accidents or conflicts over food.
• If you are training the animals, separate them so that they may be worked with individually during training sessions.
|Posted by firstname.lastname@example.org on May 4, 2019 at 3:00 AM||comments (0)|
3 May 2019
Exciting things happening this year with both our training programs.
The two Smooth Collies I have had here for over a year for behavioral rehabilitation are doing well. Nelson who suffers from Play Deficit Disorder is now able to interact well with some of the other dogs unsupervised and can be with all the dogs under supervision. Although he still chews on items he shouldn't, this has also gotten better. Sadie who is here for severe anxiety in urban settings and reactivity to cats and other small animals has improved. Daily training has significantly reduced her reactivity to cats and her instinct to chase them has diminished, although she is only around them during training sessions.
The Snake Training which was a side project I started to help Vedra, a highly fearful and reactive Jungle Carpet Python, and just to see if it could be done, has succeeded beyond my expectations. As it turns out snakes are excellent at associative learning, so classical conditioning works well for them and they seem to have great long-term memory regarding some things. Habituation to daily activity, target training, and station training is working well. I wrote an article about this that was published in the Spring 2019 edition of the https://spring2019.iaabcjournal.org/" target="_blank">IAABC Journal under the "reptiles" heading.
The snake cohabitation study is going well with no issues between cohabbed snaked and lots of journal entries to pull data from. This is such a complex subject it will get its own blog entry and I am working on an article.
This summer we are starting a behavior project to capture daily behaviors of Morelia bredli to result in a time budget detailing how they spend their time in a 24-hour period, weekly, and monthly. This will be accomplished using ethograms. I have an intern from PPCC starting this fall to assist with the project but would welcome a summer intern as well if someone is interested.
Weather has not been cooperative for horse training and as we do not have an indoor arena no riding has been done in quite some time. We work with the horses daily on general handling and groundwork. June 1-2, 2019 we are hosting a Science of Motion weekend. Jean Luc Cornille will be here lecturing and working with horses, hopefully the weather is nice, or the entire weekend will be lecture only.
The newest edition to our canine family, Norwegian Elkhound Monroe, starred in a series of videos demonstrating various canine enrichment possiblities to keep your dog occupied while they are alone and also to elicit physical activity while you are interacting with them. These can be viewed on our YouTube Channel, make sure to Like and Subscribe. YOu can view one of my favorites below:
|Posted by email@example.com on September 20, 2018 at 6:30 PM||comments (0)|
I’ve been target training Vedra and I’m so proud of her tonight. She followed the target all the way from her enclosure to her feeding tub without me putting hands on her or using any prompts at all! This is a big step in the process. It’s the first time she’s moved from one location to another following the target. Until now I’ve gotten her to follow the target with her eyes and head and perch above it in her enclosure; tonight I used it to get her to move on her own from one location to another, very exciting!
The steps I used so far:
Feed her on the target.
Place the target in front of her and place the food on it once she looks at it.
Place the target in front of her and once she looks at it, remove the target and give food.
Move the targer around a small space, when she follows it with her head, remove the target and give food.
Scent the target with food and get her to follow the target from her enclosure to her feeding bin, once inside and stationary, remove target and give food.
Place the unscented target in front of her, have her follow it from her enclosure to her feeding bin, once stationary, remove target and give food.
Next . . .
Time will tell.
|Posted by firstname.lastname@example.org on August 16, 2018 at 11:00 PM||comments (0)|
Snakes CAN learn and be trained. Humans often fail to give reptiles the credit they deserve when it comes to cognition. When Vedra first arrived here she was used to living in a tub; eventual transition to a terrarium/vivarium terrified and stressed her so she went back into a tub where she felt safe and was content. Enter the compromise to facilitate training and a behavior shift: a Neodesha enclosure with only the front clear. At first Vedra stayed near the back and used her hiding spaces a lot. Allowing her time to habituate at her own pace resulted in her spending more and more time near the front. That’s when I started using a training technique commonly used with equines known as “approach and retreat”. Within about 2 months Vedra had habituated to me, to random activity outside her window, and to having the door open at times. One day I put a whole bookshelf together as she watched with her head just slightly outside the threshold of the open door. She now remains near the clear front more than she hides and is curious when the door is open, sticking her head forward and demonstrating tongue flicking behavior to investigate activity outside. Sometimes she will choose to come out of the enclosure on her own. Vedra has also learned and accepted a handling and feeding routine but that’s a story for a future post!
Vedra is a Jungle Carpet Python (Morelia spilota cheyni) hatched in April 2017 at Ultra Violet Reptiles. She is very intelligent, observant, and expressive. She communicates well through her behavior and is a joy to work with.
|Posted by email@example.com on June 10, 2018 at 4:15 PM||comments (0)|
Welcome to our website and blog.
Our desire is to provide quality education to humans that will enhance their safety and enrich their lives. Knowing what to expect from animals and from other humans will make your interaction with them safer and ideally more enjoyable.
Trust a horse to be a horse and you are then able to base your own behavior towards them in a way likely to produce the safest and least conflicted outcome. So it goes with any animal including other people. It sounds easy but if you don't know how horses view the world and what their natural reactions are to stimuli then it would be difficult for you to know how to behave around them. This is the premise for all the trainings we do and the reason we do behavioral studies.
Pause, think before you act, ask yourself "how does this person or animal view the world? What is their umwelt? How are they likely to react to me if I do _________________? Trust a dog to be a dog and a snake to be a snake; know what that means and your interactons with them will have a better chance of being smooth and without incident.